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But this cemetery bit took me aback.“Can they go in if they’re dead?
,” I asked.“Women can be buried there,” he conceded, “but you are not allowed to go in and look into it.”So I can only see a dead woman if I’m a dead woman? It’s the most bewitching, bewildering, beheading vacation spot you’ll never vacation in.
Under a glowing Arab moon on a hot winter night, Abdullah was showing off the jewels of his city—charming green, blue, and brown houses built on the Red Sea more than a hundred years ago.
The houses, empty now, are stretched tall to capture the sea breeze on streets squeezed narrow to capture the shade.
It translated into “No f---ing way, lady.”“Women are not allowed to go into cemeteries,” he told me.
I had visited Saudi Arabia twice before, and knew it was the hardest place on earth for a woman to negotiate.
Saudi Arabia is one of the premier pilgrimage sites in the world, outstripping Jerusalem, the Vatican, Angkor Wat, and every other religious destination, except for India’s Kumbh Mela (which attracts as many as 50 million pilgrims every three years).
Millions of Muslims flock to Mecca and Medina annually. Saudi Arabia has long kept not just its women but its very self behind a veil.
A Saudi woman can’t even report harassment by a man without having a or male guardian, by her side.
When I suggested we visit, Abdullah smiled with sweet exasperation.
It was a smile I would grow all too accustomed to from Saudi men in the coming days.
Crown Prince Abdullah—now the king—was a radical modernizer by Saudi standards.
He wanted to encourage more outside contact and to project an image other than one of religious austerity (with bursts of terrorism).
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